The car seems worse now than before, god knows what did to it. Looks like the cables to the injector are almost cut through by some sort of tester probes. Can't remember if they were already done?(see attched photo) I took the engine compartment fuse box out, stipped and cleaned it so it looked like new. I checked every fuse and relay before replacing them. I cleaned every connector again including D4. I then double check the relays by swopping them with the ones in my own car.
Everything was 100% but the car still wont start. The problem deffinately isn't anything to do with the engine compartment fuse box. At least that's something else ruled out. I thought it was a engine you were dealing with but your injector picture is for a petrol engine. I can't find anything in the thread to say what engine it is though? Looks as though there are/were 3 wires going to the injector, I've only ever seen 2 for an injector?
Wires certainly look a bit butchered. Someone hasn't got an insulation piercing meter probe and has obviously been looking for a problem before.I think ruling out individual components is the only way to solve this. Might be time consuming but we'll get there in the end, I hope. Engine - 1.6 16v Yes, I'm unable to read any engine data at all. Died before I was able to connect the laptop. Security Air Bag Loose Connection(think this might be the problem) Where's the main battery neg to engine earth connection on a 1.6?Deffinately 3 wires at the injector.
B1029 Serial Line W Sound
I think your right about the insulation piercing meter probes, possibley checking for power due to immo problem? Wish I could find more about this error. B1029 - Serial Line W I can't find any info at all anywhere. Thread's got too long to read it all again.
What's the actual problem now? When it doesn't start, is the key/padlock symbol warning light illuminated?Problems are the same as before except it wont start at all now: Security Air Bag Loose Connection is the key/padlock symbol warning light illuminated? Yes I've just been looking through the elearn and noticed diagnostic port connector on the body computer has 6 Serial Lines. Might be a good place to start looking?
Edit I think there are 3 different body computers, 3 door, 5 door and Multiwagon. Can you confirm? Connector M01G on the BC is the 16 pin diagnostic connector so that would have all the diagnostic serial K lines terminating there. According to there's 3 BCs for the MW, and one for some 3 door versions and several more suitable for both 3 and 5 door versions. A BC is ordered from Italy programmed to individual VINs so effectively, there's a specific one for every vehicle. You've got eLEARN set for upto 06/2002. Is the car an early one?
If so, does he have the 5 digit electronic security code? You could try the emergency start procedure which could confirm whether it's an immobiliser problem or not. EDIT: I think pin 29 of connector A (Blue?) on the BC is serial line W. From the diagram, it's to the right of the diagnostic connector so could be a good starting point. You've got eLEARN set for upto 06/2002.
Is the car an early one? If so, does he have the 5 digit electronic security code?
You could try the emergency start procedure which could confirm whether it's an immobiliser problem or not. EDIT: I think pin 29 of connector A (Blue?) on the BC is serial line W. From the diagram, it's to the right of the diagnostic connector so could be a good starting point.I've had the eLearn set for new and old looking for anything to do with Serial Lines. Regardless of year all the serial lines converge at the body computer due to the diag socket. 'pin 29 of connector A (Blue?)' Item 4 in the diagram, ' IN/OUT recovery serial for NCM in case of break in C-CAN line'. Its the only IN/OUT serial line I've seen so may be your right, this one is Serial Line W and the rest are Serial Line K.
I'll check that for continuity tomorrow. If you need to go tackling inside the then here's some helpful pics I took of my 1.6 engine There's a 4mm deep groove of sealant all the way around holding the cover on which you'd need to cut around with a sharp knife (see blue arrow) and one leverage point (green arrow) as a start point to carefully lever the thin metal cover up and away Inside, the two connector pin sets (circled in red) are hotballed in at manufacture (whole CB area heated up to solder). Then of course the is mounted on top of a hot engine which is not that smart a place as the thing is slowly cooking its whole life long I simply redid the connector pin solder joints by placing a hot iron on each connector pin joint for around 4 secs, when you see the solder move, that's it. Make sure all the pins are level at the same height on the other side. A good light and a magnifying glass is recommended.